From vibrant, colorful lehengas to elegant sarees, and trendy kurtas, Indian women’s fashion caters to every occasion and taste. Indian women’s fashion is a cultural phenomenon celebrated across the world and not just only a source of our national pride.
Tanchoi
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Tracing back its origin to Varanasi in the 19th century the tanchoi weave was introduced by the Persians who migrated during the period of emperor Akbar. Luxurious silk fabric is known for its distinct weave and ornate designs that are rich. It is a favored choice among the royals for its look and feels. The floating warp technique is used to weave on satin. There is an intricate embroidery of patterns and motifs with colorful silk threads. A labor-intensive and time-consuming art, the tanchoi weave is a meticulous process that requires a lot of patience and skill.
The motifs in the intricate designs are inspired by nature, mythology, and folklore. The symmetry, boldness, and precision are evident in the intricate patterns that are woven. The hues and shades are usually contrasting with zari and meenakari embellishments. Dyed with a wide range of colors like jewel tones, earthy tones, and pastel shades the tanchoi is mesmerizing. This unparalleled beauty is a masterpiece of Indian textile art.
Tangaliya
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Tracing its origin back to the Dang region in the western state of Gujarat, the tangaliya is known for its vibrant colors and unique motifs. The tangaliya was practiced by the Bhil tribe from the region who were known for their weaving skills. Known for its bright colors like oranges, red, green, blue, and yellow from natural dyes the resulting fabric is stunning and depicts the cultural ethos of Gujarat.
Telia rumal
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Tracing the origin back to the 16th century during the reign of Qutub shahi dynasty in Telangana, the telia rumal or putta rumal is a tie and dye technique known for its vibrant colors. The fabric is woven in a pit loom using the resist dyeing technique known for bright colors that are derived from natural sources like pomegranate peels, turmeric, indigo, and madder.
The telia rumal apart from being a cultural recognition has also found its place in contemporary fashion that it is used in making shawls, stoles, and scarves.
An ever-evolving industry, the Indian women’s fashion segment is constantly influenced by varying trends that come and go. Not only attire but the material that is used also plays an important role in fashion trends. For example, there is a difference between a cotton saree and a chiffon saree. Each is different on its own, be it comfort, durability, and efforts taken to maintain.
Gathered or pleated strips of fabric that aid volume and give an appearance of a frill is called ruffle and that is now becoming a fashion trend. Right from sarees to gowns to even crop tops, the trend has hopped across categories of garments that aid more grace and elegance.
From sleeves, yokes, hemlines, and even dupattas can have ruffles of various sizes ranging from large to small based on the look or the occasion for which the garment is to be worn. The ruffle adds a touch of femininity to the wearer. Elegant in appearance it tends to highlight the curves. It also adds depth and creates movement when worn.
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This movement and depth make an eye-catching appearance of the outfit. It gives a vintage and bohemian outlook to the outfit. Its ability to be able to incorporate into various fabrics or patterns makes it versatile. While Chiffon, georgette, and organza that is lightweight give a dreamy effect when a ruffle is added, silk, satin, and velvet get a lot of volume when a ruffle is added since they are more structured.
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Designers have incorporated the ruffle trend in most Indian attire and it especially gained a lot of traction when Deepika Padukone wore it for Cannes. Her off-white ruffle saree with pearl collar designed by Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla for the closing ceremony brought this trend alive and much sought-after. Not to forget yet another time when Deepika flaunted a dual-tone ruffle saree to a popular TV show with colors right out of a candy shop was an instant hit that a lot of manufacturers adopted the design to offer it to the masses who wanted to follow their star. If you would want to check out the saree you can buy an affordable one just by clicking here.
With a history spanning thousands of years, Indian women’s fashion has evolved over the years incorporating a fusion of traditional and modern styles. Women now have a wide range of options to choose from and incorporate the culture.
Patiala salwar
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Also known as Punjabi salwar, this is the most common attire worn by women in North India, especially Punjab. Designed initially for the Maharaja’s courtiers, it was initially worn by men and later adapted for women. Pleated loose at the waist and tapering towards the ankle the Patiala salwar is a comfortable pant that is unique and fashionable.
It can be made in cotton or silk depending on the occasion for which it is worn. The pleats in the pant are hand stitched to give a voluminous look and are usually worn with a long tunic. The outfit also gleams a high level of modesty in the conservative society. The loose fit of the pant makes them easier to move, so many women prefer to wear this as everyday garments.
Pochampally ikkat
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Originating from the Pochampally town of Telangana, this textile art form is highly valued for vibrant colors and designs and is also passed down across generations. The weaving technique is unique and involves using dyed thread to be woven onto a pattern in a loom, involves great skill and could be spoiled even with the slightest mistake.
With origin traced back to the 17th century, the weave is known for intricate patterns and vibrant colors. Predominantly worn as sarees, the fabric is now used for garments like salwar and dresses.
Patola
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The finest form of textile art and known for its vibrant colors and durability, the patola originates from the state of Gujarat. The weaving technique is known as double ikat where the yarn is first tied and dyed in a pattern and then woven into the fabric. Dating back to the 12th century, the patola was initially used to be worn by the royals.
Collectors and enthusiasts had this as the most sought-after because of its rarity. The vibrant colors in the pattern are visible on both sides. The silk threads used to weave give a luxurious and elegant look. A popular weave among the wealthy and elite because of its beauty and craftsmanship.
The weave is durable, and long-lasting making it popular among the masses.
Paithani
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Originating from the state of Maharashtra, this time-consuming and complex weave is known for intricate designs Worn initially only by the nobility, the paithani’s origin can be traced back to 200 BC.
A technique called bandi is used for weaving wherein the fabric is woven in sections according to the pattern which requires patience and skill. Peacocks, flowers, and vines are traditionally inspired motifs that are woven into intricate patterns. Resistant to wear and tear and fading of colors, the paithani is yet another popular weave.
An essential part of Indian culture and worn on various occasions, the ornaments are important and play a significant role in Indian Women’s fashion trends. In ancient times, the ornaments decided the status, wealth, and power of the people who adorned them. In changing times, designs and styles have evolved a lot and become an integral part of Indian culture.
Embellishments, vibrant colors, and intricate designs have made Indian women’s fashion trends famous. The beauty and charm of an Indian outfit are enhanced when Jewelry or ornament is added as an element, Gold, diamond, platinum, silver, and stones are the variety of materials that have been used to craft Indian ornaments. What makes the jewelry or ornament very special is the story behind it, which makes it unique.
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A necklace worn by married women, the mangalsutra is the most popular ornament. The ornament is made of gold and has black beads, which symbolize the bond between the married couple. Being considered a sacred symbol of marriage, the mangalsutra is also a vital part of Indian culture.
The nose ring comes in a variety of designs, and sizes embellished with stone, the nose ring is also a popular ornament. Known to be considered a symbol of married status, the nose ring is nowadays being worn by adolescent girls. It is also considered that wearing a nose ring enhances a women’s facial features.
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Worn in the wrists and made of gold, silver, or glass the bangle is a popular Indian ornament. They enhance an outfit instantaneously if paired properly. The bangle is usually worn in sets and adds beauty to the outfit. It is also considered that the sound from bangle is auspicious and especially worn by pregnant ladies as part of ceremonies to let the child identify the mother with the sound from bangles.
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Varied in sizes, and designs and often studded with stones or made of intricate designs the earring is one of the most sought-after ornaments. They enhance the beauty of the women flaunting them. It is considered an essential part of a woman’s wedding. Women have often resorted to multiple piercings to enhance their beauty.
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Anklet is an ornament worn around the leg and is considered to elevate the look of an ethnic outfit. It is mostly made of silver but it can also be worn in gold. Embellishments can be added like stones, danglers, or even enamel pieces.
Statement jewelry is now the talk of the town and is becoming increasingly popular, wearing ornament pieces that are unique and make a bold outlook can enhance the outfit of the wearer. These jewelry pieces add a contemporary touch when ethnic wear is worn.
Whether it is a mangalsutra or bangles, nose ring, or even earrings and anklets, ornaments are ssure to enhance the outfit and will continue to be an evolving fashion trend for women.
An attire that has been worn for centuries, six to nine yards, draped in different styles to give a unique look. A fashion statement and a symbol of Indian culture, it is a popular attire across the world and not only in India. Now let us look at some drapes and fabric in N.
Nivi drape
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The most common saree drape that you can see around and the easiest drape. Originating from Andhra Pradesh where the Nivi tribe lived, the drape is known for simplicity and elegance. It is a drape that is favored and worn by women from all age groups and body types. It is easy to wear, and quick to drape making it a good choice for everyday wear. It is draped over the left shoulder with pleats centered at the waist, leaving it loose over the shoulder and to the floor. The length is either six or nine yards. From formal events to casual outings, this drape is the most versatile option. The drape suits all types of bodies by accentuating the curves and giving an overall feminine touch.
Evolving over the years, women have experimented with fabrics, colors, and even the way the pallu is pinned. Some women tend to keep it pinned to shoulders for formal occasions, while in some cases it is let loose to flaunt the design or the embellishments which could be embroidery, sequins or stone work. Designers have now incorporated the drape into garments that feature this pre-stitched pleating in gowns which makes it look elegant. A timeless and elegant drape of the nivi drape is a fashion statement for years to continue.
Nauvari drape
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A drape worn by the womenfolk of Maharashtra, the nauvari drape is worn by draping a nine-yard saree. It is the traditional drape of the state of Maharashtra. A popular choice for weddings, festivals, and cultural events, this drape that represents the Marathi culture is also known as the Kashta drape. To give the look of dhoti, the pleats are tucked into the leg, then draped over the left shoulder, and pallu is pinned. Draping the saree around the torso and then pinning it at the back gives a diagonal look.
The unique feature is that the drape allows ease of movement and is loved by women of all age groups. Women now experiment with different fabrics and have embellishments that accentuate the beauty of the saree. Accessorizing it with a nath on the nose really gives an elegant look.
Not only for women in Maharashtra but the drape is also preferred by many women across the country who choose to drape this style for events and cultural occasions.
Ngotekherh weave
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Characterized by intricate designs and vibrant colors, the Ngotekherh weave is a weaving technique practiced by the Tangkul tribe of the state of Manipur. Known for geometric patterns and the bold colors on fabric the ngotekherh weave has a presence of natural dyes from tree bark, and flowers which give long-lasting color.
It is a technique that is passed across generations from grandmothers to granddaughters. This helps in preserving the artwork and at the same time having more skilled people know the nuances.
Comprising a vibrant and rich tapestry of styles and colors, Indian women’s fashion has evolved over the years. A reflection of the cultural heritage, it has also been influenced by regional styles and influences from the foreign land. Let us look at the trends in M.
Madisar
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A traditional draping style of the south Indian women, the madisar is longer than the usual 6-yard saree and is either 9 or 10 yards depending on the requirement. Worn by the married women of the Brahmin community the madisar is a symbol of cultural heritage. The method of drape makes it easier for movement, though it takes a lot of practice to drape the madisar perfectly. It is a tradition in the Brahmin household that the madisar is to be worn for every religious function in the household. To make it much easier, we now have pre-stitched madisars that have all the pleats stitched.
Mekhela Chador
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A two-piece garment that has a long skirt-like cloth called mekhela and a cloth that drapes over the shoulder and back called the chador, the mekhela chador is the traditional attire of the Assamese women. An important part of Assamese tradition, it is worn by women during marriages and religious occasions. Made in a variety of fabrics like silk, Muga, and cotton it is a symbol of luxury. Available in a variety of colors with motifs ranging from flora to fauna, and geometric designs, it is a very popular garment. It plays a very important role in the state’s wedding tradition and is worn by the brides. The women of the state wear it during Bihu and Durga puja as part of the tradition and respect.
Maheshwari weave
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A traditional handloom weaving technique originated in the town of Maheshwar, Uttar Pradesh, the Maheshwari weave is a blend of cotton and silk. Known for its lightweight and airy texture it gives a glossy shine and is durable.
The fabric is woven in such a way that both sides are identical and it can be reversible, so a great option for versatility. The jacquard weaving technique is used for creating designs and it gives good precision and detailing.
Mashru weave
A traditional handloom weave that uses silk and cotton threads, the mashru weave originated in Gujarat. The light and smooth fabric has silk in the inner layer and cotton on the outer layer making it durable and is also resistant to wear and tear. Cotton for the outer layer enabled comfort and the silk lining depicted beauty and luxury.
The weaving takes place in a pit loom that is manually operated using foot pedals and levers. The contrasting colors and patterns on the fabric when worn give a beautiful effect and the silk lining adds elegance.
Moirang phee
A traditional handloom weaving technique, the moirang phee originated in the MOirang town of the state of Manipur. It’s known for its intricate and colorful designs that depict the culture of the region.
Cotton that is locally sourced from the fields in Manipur is used to make the fabric, moirang phee. The light and airy nature of the fabric makes it best suited for hot and humid climates. The weaving is done on a pit loom by skilled manual labor.
Natural dyes from turmeric, indigo, and hibiscus flowers help in creating vibrant patterns such as birds, animals, and patterns that depict the local culture and tradition such as the folklore and mythology of Manipur.
Muga silk
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Originating in the Northeastern state of Assam, the Muga silk is a luxurious and unique fabric that is known for its unique golden color and lustrous texture. These unique characteristics, make it the most sought-after among silk lovers.
The Brahmaputra valley in Assam is where there is an abundance of som and sualu trees which is the food for the silk moth. Rearing the silk moth, extracting the fiber, and then weaving the fabric is a laborious process. The silk known for its durability has a unique gold color which is from the yellow pigment of the cocoon. A symbol of the state’s rich tradition and history it also helps in preserving the cultural heritage of the state of Assam. It also forms a major part of contributing to the economy of the state.
Mysore silk
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Known for its exceptional quality and durability, the Mysore silk originates from the city of Mysore, Karnataka. The mulberry silkworms provide high-quality silk yarns that provide sheen and softness which is a unique characteristic of this silk.
A highly laborious process involves boiling the silkworm, extracting the yarn, and then weaving them into the fabric. The silk fabric is available in a variety of colors and designs made from jacquard weaving.
Thousands of people are involved in the extraction and weaving process which makes silk production a major contributor to the state economy. The production of silk adhering to quality standards is overseen by the Government.
A diverse field steeped in culture and tradition Indian women’s fashion comprises a range of styles and influences from modern-inspired dresses to traditional sarees. Deeply rooted in the culture, it also evolves with changing economic and social trends.
Let us look at Indian fashion trends in L.
Lehenga
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A long skirt embellished with embroidery and a fitted blouse with a scarf is the lehenga, a traditional garment worn by women in India. Depending upon the fabric and colors, the lehengas come in various styles and are worn for weddings and special occasions.
Tracing back the origin to the Mughal Empire, the wives of the royal family were known for their love of extravagant clothing. A sign of wealth and luxury, the garment was worn by the affluent class and royalty.
The lehenga trend soon caught on and it became a popular choice for the bride and the bridesmaids. The garment has also undergone a lot of changes with the passing times, with respect to fabric, embroidery, and so on.
The A-line, circular, and mermaid are some of the types of lehenga which are most sought-after by the younger generation these days. Whether it is a wedding or a special occasion, the lehenga will make heads turn to your side.
Langa Voni
The langa voni or the half saree is a traditional attire worn by adolescent girls in South India. You can read more about it here.
Leheriya
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A traditional Indian textile art originated in Rajasthan, a tie and dye technique that creates a wavy pattern and rippled effect. The word ‘leher’ means wavy which is in accordance with the patterns created.
The local artisans in Rajasthan introduced the art in the late 18th century, initially created using natural dyes and colors. The bright and bold colors symbolize the vibrant colors of Rajasthan. The fabric is twisted like a rope and tied at certain intervals post which it is dyed. The leheriya is now incorporated into modern fashion. Though synthetic dyes are now being used, the local artisans still prefer natural dyes for the fabric.
Lepcha weave
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Practiced by the Lepcha people of the northeastern region, the Lepcha weave is an intricate and labor-intensive weaving technique. It uses natural fibres like cotton, silk, and wool. The use of natural dyes from plants, roots, and berries gives vibrant colors to the fabric. Simple designs like stripes and checks to complicated designs like geometrics designs are woven by the artisans. The weave is an integral part of Lepcha culture. The government has taken steps to preserve and promote by enabling artisans to sell their products online.
Laisingphee weave
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Practiced by the Meitei tribe in the northeastern part of India the Laisingphee is a traditional handloom weaving technique. It uses a fly shuttle loom and natural fibres like cotton and silk.
A high level of skill is required to operate the fly shuttle loom and to achieve the desired pattern the weaver must use a good combination of speed and precision. Natural dyes like indigo, turmeric, and madder root are used to achieve bright and vibrant colors in the fabric.
An important part of the Meitei culture, the laisingphee is used to make clothing and even home furnishing materials.
Let us look at trends in K. We have a lot of weaves in K that are popular among the masses even now.
Kurta/Kurti
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Popular among both men and women the kurta or kurti is known for its versatility and style in addition to being a comfort fair. By saying versatile you could wear it for everyday wear and also for weddings or special occasions.
The kurta is long, loose-fitted, and has a length below the knee, the kurti is typically shorter and is usually till the knee or above it. They can be made in a variety of fabrics like cotton, silk, and chiffon. They can also have embellishments like embroidery, and sequins which adds more beauty.
Depending upon the occasion the garment can be dressed up or down. Say for everyday wear it can be paired with a jean, dhoti pants, or leggings, but for a wedding, it can be made grandeur with heavy embellishments and accessories.
The loose fit makes the garment airier and easier to move around making it one of the most sought-after comforts. It is also easy to be cared for like machine washing and hand or dry wash for expensive materials or work done on them.
A great way to depict Indian cultural heritage it can also be worn for religious occasions and marriages, the kurta/kurti is a symbol of Indian identity and pride. A worth-considering outfit known for its versatility, the kurta/kurti gains popularity even overseas.
Kantha weave
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Kantha which means rags in Sanskrit, is a technique in the Indian subcontinent originating in the eastern part, of Bengal and Odisha that involves stitching together layers of old saree, dhoti, and discarded clothes to form intricate patterns. Could be considered as recycling old clothes into functional ones like cushions or quilts.
A technique that was traditionally practiced by the rural women, who would collect fabrics and turn them into functional household materials this was later adopted by skilled artisans to create beautiful garments. The product is rustic and elegant.
The versatility is a great advantage of this weave, be it for cushions, quilts, sarees, or salwar. The repurposing of old fabrics aids sustainability which is one more reason the weave is becoming much famous. The weave also helps support rural women’s communities.
Khesh
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Derived from the Bengali word ‘khesh’ which means ‘scratch or tear’, the khesh is a handloom weaving technique from West Bengal, that repurposes old sarees or dhotis. The eco-friendly and sustainable nature makes it even more popular as it repurposes fabric without any waste.
The unique and colorful designs make it stand apart, a single color is used as warp, and strips from pre-used clothing woven as weft result in textured fabrics with vibrant colors.
It is time-consuming and laborious as the weaver needs to carefully select the pre-worn garment strips that would go well with the warp. The woven cloth is used to make furnishings like curtains and cushion covers and also sarees. Known for its vibrant colours and texture the weave is also making its way to the fashion industry where designers use this for upcoming projects.
Kota Doria
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Originating in the Kota region of Rajasthan, It is a weaving technique that produces light and airy fabrics. The weaving involves intricate checked or square patterns and is predominantly used for producing sarees. It uses two yarns thick one called the warp and a thin one called the weft. The weft yarns are passed over and under the warp threads to form the square patterns.
The fabric is lightweight and breathable which is great for hot and humid weather. White, beige, and pastel are usual colors but with changing trends they are now available in different colors. It has a GI tag that makes it unique and authentic and it is made by traditional methods.
Indian fashion is an evolving industry that keeps coming up with new designs every day. Based on comfort, affordability, the fabric used, and the occasion or region where it is worn we have lots of options when it comes to styling.
Let us take a look at trends in J.
Jamawar
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A beautiful, luxurious fabric prized for centuries, the Jamawar is known for its intricate designs and most importantly its reversible nature, along with the use of gold and silver yarn which makes it a symbol of elegance.
It is a type of shawl made with silk, wool, and gold, silver threads that trace back its origin during the reign of the Mughals. A symbol of wealth and luxury the Jamawar is woven in Iran, India, and Pakistan. Weaved as a special garment for royalty it is also an expensive trade commodity, which makes it a prized possession and a symbol for the elite population.
The pattern is drawn on paper and then transferred to warp threads, it is then tied, and dyed as per the drawn design post in which the weft thread is inserted. The design on one side is a mirror image of the other making the fabric reversible which is possible with the kani technique of weaving. The weaving is done on the back following the design which appears on the front.
The designs are predominantly inspired by nature like paisleys, and flowers. The Jamawar is known as an adulterated form of the pashmina weave. But then the production has also declined because of the cheaper availability of fabrics that are machine-made.
Jamdani
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Particularly originating and to have been practiced in Bangladesh and Bengal, the Jamdani is a handloom weaving technique that is done with intricate designs on cotton fabric. Derived from the Persian word ‘Jam’ which means Flower and ‘Dani’ which means vase, the weaving includes making designs of flowers onto the fabric.
A thicker cotton thread katan is woven between warp threads and to which the weft is inserted later. The Katan is removed once weaving is done, which results in intricate patterns being done on the fabric which look vibrant. The quality can be decided based on the design and skill of the weaver. The more skilled the weaver is, the more intricate the design on the fabric. The fabrics are lightweight and most suited for hot and humid climates.
Due to cheaper machine-made fabrics, Jamdani production is declining which Government is taking steps to preserve this weaving technique and train skilled weavers, and bring this art to the next generation to be taken forward. Several non-profit organizations along with the Government train skilled laborers, support them and create employment opportunities for their livelihood.
Indian women’s fashion trends never have an end, because each day we see a new trend popping up. Thanks to social media for taking long trends across the length and breadth of the land. In today’s post we discuss the trends in H.
Half saree
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Also known as langa voni or pavada davani, the half saree is predominantly worked by the adolescent girls in South India. A garment that is gifted by the maternal uncle to the girl once she attains puberty, the half saree is a three piece attire consisting of a long skirt, blouse and a cloth that is to be draped over across the left shoulder.
Adolescent girls wear this attire until they are married. Though it might seem similar to the ghaghra choli of North India it differs in the way the dupatta is draped. The half saree can be weaved in cotton for casual wear and in silk or luxurious materials for festive wear.
Initially it was similar colors that were paired but with changing trends extreme contrast and even different materials for all three parts of the garment is now becoming fashionable. Even sarees these days have adopted the half and half look which will make the saree appear like a half saree. Embellished with stones, sequins and embroidery the half saree can be made to look elegant and beautiful.
Habaspuri sarees
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Known for their unique motifs like kumbha, fish and flower worn into the fabric with mulberry or cotton silk threads on handloom the habaspuri sarees trace back their origin to habaspur in Odisha.
Exceptional attention to intricate designs and craftsmanship is the unique highlight of this weave and a motif that resembles a longitudinally arranged temple makes it stand out from other weaves. One of Odisha’s symbols of cultural heritage the habaspuri saree is a great addition to your beautiful wardrobe.
As the art of this particular weave is almost dying since youngsters have now turned to different occupations, the Government in a last resort has planned training for the youth to keep the art of this weave alive. A GI tag is provided to not only ensure the quality is high but also to bring a competitive price in the international market.
How can one forget handloom sarees , made by hand in the look with patterns warp and weft handloom weaves should be preserved and purchased to support local artisans whose livelihood depends on selling these garments.
That Madras Mom 