The Indian fashion industry not only comes up with new ideas but also revives traditional wear by adopting techniques in cuts and giving the outfit a new dimension. The weaves from yesteryear are great fabrics for modern wear today.
Let us look at trends in I.
Ilkal weave
Dating back to the 8th century the ilkal originated during the reign of the Chalukya dynasty in the town of Ilkal in the Bagalkot district of Karnataka. Known for the unique style of weaving cotton and silk threads to form vibrant patterns in durable fabrics the ilkal weavers were known for weaving them for royalty.
The garment had intricate designs and patterns, which followed the ilkal weave evolving by incorporating elements from neighboring regions. Temple silk is the special yarn that is used for weaving which gives stiffness and makes it easier to weave. The pit loom allows the weaving of complex patterns and designs which makes it unique.
Bright and bold colors like red, green, and gold are predominantly used for ilkal weaving. The weaving is a time-consuming process that begins with the preparation of the yarn. The cotton and silk threads are prepared separately, wherein silk is treated with starch to get stiffness. The two threads are then weaved together through weft and warp techniques in the pit loom.
The resulting Ilkal fabric is durable and is resistant to wear and tear. The fabric is also known to retain color and shape therefore has a long life and is one of the reasons that it is most sought-after.
As long as there are skilled ilkal weavers, it will continue to thrive and mesmerize us with its vibrant beauty. Ilkal sarees are passed across generations as family heirlooms.
Ikkat
A traditional dyeing and weaving technique that dates to the 6th century is famous in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. In those regions, they are referred to as Pochampally illat or Telia rumal.
They are majorly known for their vibrant colors, intricate designs, and durability. A time-consuming and labor-intensive method, the weaving involves preparing yarn by tying and wrapping them in resist like mud or wax for patterns, post which they are dipped in dye. The resist is then removed and the thread is sent into the loom to be woven into a vibrant fabric.
It’s a unique look where the pattern looks like it is woven into the fabric unlike others that look printed on the fabric making it stand apart from its counterparts. Initially used for sarees the ikkat is now part of a lot of garments like salwar, jumpsuits, and even furnishings like table runners and curtains.
Owing to the time consumption and skilled craftsmanship the cost is a bit on the higher side. The ikkat dyeing has now also been done on silk which gives the sarees a grandeur looks with the intricate patterns and vibrant colors.
When we discuss trends in I, we can also mention Indo-western dresses which is nothing but the fusion wear we discussed while discussing trends in F which can be read here.
This post is part of #blogchatterA2Z 2023.
That Madras Mom 