Indian textile – That Madras Mom

April 29, 2023

Z in Indian women fashion

We have finally reached the end, does this mean the trends end here? No way. We already know that it keeps changing with time. But I know that you can find a lot of ideas from the posts here and give it your own twist and voila you may even bring out a trend sooner.
For Z we are going to be exploring zari. Wait does that even need an introduction here in India? No right. A type of thread that is either gold or silver wire which adorns traditional fabrics like sarees, lehengas, and dupattas, the zari is an integral part of the textile and fashion industry.

A popular choice for traditional events like marriages and other religious occasions the zari adds a touch of elegance and opulence to the fabric making it appear rich and luxurious.
The Persian and Turkish artisans introduced the zari concept during the reign of the Mughal emperors. This art was refined during the Mughal era and perfected to be made into garments for royalty. The zari became an integral part of the attire for Royalty in the Mughal era.

Skilled artisans require precision and attention to detail when they work on this labour-intensive process of weaving the zari. The gold or the silver wire is twisted with cotton or silk making it durable and then being woven into the fabric to create embroideries and embellishments. It is then woven into patterns and motifs.

Zari adds a touch of luxury and elegance to the garment when it is used to create intricate patterns, designs, and motifs on sarees, lehenga, and traditional wear. A simple zari motif can make a normal-looking dress appear grand.

Banarasi zari is one of the popular forms of zari work. Banarasi saree has intricate zari works which make it one of the most luxurious sarees in the country. The banarasi saree with zari is one of the finest fabrics in India. Real gold or silver is used in the zari for Banrasi sarees and has intricate motifs, designs, and patterns for a grandeur look.

Zardosi embroidery is another popular form, where the zari thread is used along with beads and sequins. It is a painstaking process that requires a lot of patience and precision. Since it is handmade it takes a lot of time to complete a single piece of fabric, that depends on how complex the design is.

Even today skilled artisans work tirelessly to create exquisite pieces with stunning designs and motifs which are the hallmark of the Indian fashion Industry.

This post is part of #blogchatterA2Z 2023.

April 24, 2023

U in Indian women fashion

The Indian women’s fashion trend depends on weaves and garments and how women carried themselves. Women in films whom I would say were the first role models we look up to even today for fashion inspiration. Though at times like today, we have social media at our fingertips, when we refer to a trend, we most often mention the name of the celebrity who sported it.

Urmila Matondkar

The ‘Rangeela’ girl as we know her made all of us even women who went in awe looking at her on screen. Be it her beauty or hair, the costumes she wore had a lot to speak about. Manish Malhotra, the designer also mentioned that there were copies of her costumes post that movie on every street. The movie that made him win the Designer of the Year award. Her designs in the movie ushered in fashion trends and became a style statement.

The peplum skirt, knotted tops, black saree, and red leggings were an instant hit among the womenfolk of the country. Her smart casuals looked very glamorous and became a trendsetter. Her gharchola and the bandhani in the song made the weave much more famous and preferred for the ghaghra. Her tangerine skater skirts, the pleated skirts were such a hit. Though it is nearly 28 years since the movie was released, the trends she set are still timeless and are great fashion inspiration for a confident woman.

Uppada

Tracing back its origin to the 18th century, when the country was ruled over by the East India Company, the weave is from the Uppada town in Andhra Pradesh. A traditional handloom technique is known for its intricate designs and fine texture; the weave is a testimony to skilled craftsmen.

The Weaver population from Uppada migrated to Peddapuram where they happened to learn the weave of Jamdani from the Bengali weavers. They incorporated their techniques into jamdani which brought out a new weave called the Uppada. It is lightweight and the sheer texture gives a grandeur look and is most sought after for making traditional garments.

The weavers take great pride in their artistry which is time-consuming, complicated, and labor-intensive. A diverse range of patterns with motifs that include nature and geometric designs in vibrant colors make the weave unique. Gold and silver zari threads are used for extra richness to the woven fabric. The intricate designs and elaborate borders on the pallu are the highlight of the uppada weave. The metallic thread in the body adds grandeur to the fabric.

Another unique feature is the texture of this weave which is lustrous and has a sheen which is because the warp is made of pure mulberry silk and the weft is a combination of silk and cotton that is responsible for the shine.
The uppada weave has received the GI tag from the Government for its uniqueness and authenticity which is another reason for its boost in the global retail market. It is a weave that is cherished by the connoisseurs of handloom textiles and is even passed through generations as an heirloom.

This post is part of #blogchatterA2Z 2023.

April 2, 2023April 2, 2023

B’s in Indian women fashion

Talking about India’s rich history of women’s fashion, which dates back centuries, the vibrant prints and weaves that originated from small villages still stand leading their way on top of the most sought-after weaves. Not only popular within the Indian subcontinent, but some of these weaves are also considered souvenirs by tourists from across the globe.
Let us look at some of the Indian women’s fashion trends in B.

Bandhani

Practiced in India for centuries, the bandhani is the most popularly known as tie and dye which is a traditional textile craft. Tying a small portion of the fabric with thread and then dying them in bright colors results in small circles or dots that form a pattern of intricate designs.
Though Bandhani originated in the state of Gujarat, it is also being practiced in the neighbouring state of Rajasthan. The art of this weave has been passed along through generations and is one of the ways of earning an income. Traditional techniques and natural dyes are still being used for bandhani by many families in Rajasthan and Gujarat.

The unique patterns of dots, stripes, and waves which result in an intricate pattern often vary across the different regions in which this art is practiced. The bright and bold colors used reflect the mood of the occasion for which the fabric would be worn and often vary across geographies and availability of various natural dyes.

Requiring patience, precision, and creativity the bandhani is a highly-skilled craft, which is quite labor-intensive since each dot or circle is individually tied before being dipped in the dye obtained from plants and animals.
The beautiful and intricate textile craft of bandhani which reflects the cultural heritage of India is not only popular in India but also has a fanbase across the world. Designs incorporate modern twists to this ancient craft to adapt to contemporary fashion.

Banarasi silk

Produced in the city of Varanasi, in the Uttar Pradesh state of India, the banarasi silk is a luxurious and most sought-after fabric, that incorporates gold and silver threads that form intricate patterns which makes it one of the most expensive and finest fabrics.

Dating back to Mughal era, where Persian artisans were brought to Varanasi to create weaves for the royal court. The craft evolved over time, with the artisans incorporating local designs and motifs into the fabric. The fine quality, rich texture, and intricate designs make it highly prized among consumers.
The finest silk threads are woven in hand-operated looms which are enhanced using gold and silver threads that give the fabric more shine and luster. From floral motifs to geometric shapes, the threads are intricately woven to obtain desired patterns. Brocade, Zari, and meenakari techniques are used to weave into the banarasi fabric. Used to make traditional Indian costumes like sarees, salwar, and lehengas the banarasi silk is also used to make luxurious shawls and scarves. Often banarasi sarees are passed down as family heirlooms. The fabric is recognized as a geographical Indication(GI) by the Indian Government, which helps in protecting the unique identity of the product and prevents duplicates from being sold in the market.

Bagh and bagru prints

Both these are hand block printing techniques used on fabrics. Bagh has a history dating to 400 years and originated in Madhya Pradesh whereas bagru originated in the Bagru region of Rajasthan. Involving natural dyes for colors and hand-carved wooden blocks for creating intricate patterns, both these techniques are labour intensive since they are done by hand manually.

Once printing is complete, the fabrics are washed to remove excess dyes and fixatives. The vibrant colors and intricate design on the bagh and bagru print fabrics are inspired by nature and traditional motifs. Both are eco-friendly and sustainable processes that make them a one-of-a-kind fabric.

This post is a part of #blogchatterA2Z 2023.