acne – That Madras Mom

December 10, 2021December 10, 2021

Must know benefits of azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is naturally derived from barley , wheat and rye. It is widely know for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties make it the best choice when it comes to treating acne and rosacea.

Azelaic acid clears out the bacteria from the pores present in skin that cause acne and also helps in preventing future outbreak.

Azelaic acid can be applied topically to skin in the for of cream, gel and foam. But all the forms have the same way of application in terms of the products that are used in skincare routine.

Azelaic acid is getting increasingly popular and is most often the ingredient that is looked down upon and under the radar.

When the ingredient is suggested through prescriptions from dermatologists it would be about 15-20% concentration. But the ones that are sold over the counters are usually lesser in concentration. But usually it is safer to incorporate upto a concentration os 20%.

Azelaic acid takes a lot of time to show results so patience is needed when using this ingredient. The variants that are given through prescriptions take about a month or two and those available over the counter take up to three to four months to visibly see an improvement. The difference in the vast time gap is the strength of concentration that is present in the product.

Azelaic acid acts as an anti-inflammmatory for the acne and as an anti-pigment because of is ability to block tyrosinase. Azelaic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor since it blocks melanin production.

Who can use?

Azelaic acid is great for people who have combination and oily skin. While those with sensitive skin might experience a mild redness when applying the product.

It is a safer ingredient that can be used by pregnant and breastfeeding women. But it is always advised to consult your doctor before incorporating a new ingredient into skincare routine especially if you are pregnant or a breastfeeding mother.

BENEFITS:

ACNE TREATMENT:

Azelaic acid has been best known for treating acne for a longer period of time. It is an antibacterial as it fights to kill the acne causing bacteria. It is not like the other acid counterparts which fight acne , its an OTC that is quite strong to treat the condition.

It works by reducing the free fatty acid content deep down the pores in your skin. This makes the environment less adaptable to the bacteria. It also disrupts the normal cell functioning of bacteria thereby fighting from within.

GOOD EXFOLIANT

It works to increase the turnover rate of dead skin cells so that the pores are clean. So when you have clean and clearer pores it prevents future formation of acne.

LIGHTENS SCARS AND HYPERPIGMENTATION

Melanin in reduced in hyperactive areas which are the dark spots on skin when azelaic acid is applied.Since it is a tyrosinase inhibitor, it reduces melanin production. Simply put, it doesn’t let tyrosinase do its work and henace melanin production is stalled. Melasma and acne scars are lightened to a greater extent when azelaic acid is used.

ANTI INFLAMMATORY

Azelaic acid reduces pain,redness and swelling due to rosacea and acne. It calms the breaksouts and further inhibits the formation of new acne. For skin that has rosacea it helps to alleviate the redness and soothes the inflammation. Azelaic acid beeing mild than the other counterparts used for treating acne, it exfoliates and clears out the pores in a gentle way

How to use?

Can be used in forms of gel or a cream.

The sequence in usage would be,

Cleanse
Exfoliate
Tone
Azelaic acid
Moisturizer
SUnscreen

Use it initially as a spot treatment. Always begin with a patch test. Can be done on forehead when skin is thickest. Gradually increase areas of application to pigmentation prone area or even entire face. Massage for two minutes to get the product absorbed by skin.

Follow up with moisturizer to keep skin hydrated. The azelaic acid must be dried up before appying moisturizer else it will not absorb into skin and do its job.

Azelaic acid makes skin susceptible to sunburn and UV radiation effects. Since azelaic acid works to inhibit melanin production the skin is delicate and can be damaged easily. So always make sure to use sunscreen when using azelaic acid.

PRODUCTS IN INDIA

The Derma Co. 10% Azelaic Acid Face Serum For Uneven Skin Tone & Dark Spots

The formulation has ginger root oil along with bergamot oil along with azelaic acid. It is suited for all skin types and comes in a convenient spray bottle in a cream consistency.

Price: 449
Quantity: 30ml

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November 18, 2021November 18, 2021

Must know benefits of retinol or retinoid

Retinol or retinoid is a derivative of vitamin A. Known for its ability to boost cell turnover, it is one of the widely used ingredients incorporated into daily skincare routine.

Whether you want to maintain a fine glow or shoo away the fine lines and signs of ageing, this is one ingredient that you should be reaching to. Though it is not very tough to source it as its readily availble over the counters in departmental stores, drug stores or over ecommerce websites, it is the ingredient that s often misinterpreted or misused.

One most important factor to take care is to use it during the nights as sunlight decreases the efficacy of the product. And also that using it makes skin more sensitive to UV rays, it is advised to use sunscreen in the day and retinols at night.

HOW TO START?

Thirties are termed to be banner age for retinoids however the mid twenties would be much better to start off with. It has to be incorporated slowly into your routine, say about twice in a week and peas sized amount to start off. In earlier stages make sure to wash it off post two hours.

The side effects are mild with redness, itching, dryness and sensitivityduring the course of time the normal skin gets adjusted to the ingredient. However the sensitive skin reacts triggering acne and rosacea so people with highly sensitive skin can stay away from using this and have many alternatives to choose from to incorporate into their routine.

When you’re getting started you can wash face, wait for sometime for the natural facial oils to set in and then apply retinols. Or in other ways you can incorporate the sandwich technique wherein you can dab the moisturizer, apply retinol and then seal it with moisturizer again.

Start with a lower strength like 0.75% and then proceed to 1%. While the retinols that are available over the counter are for fighting the signs of ageing, The ones that are given in prescription are for treating acne.

When you are using retinold it is best prefered to use cream base under the eyes and for the face use a serum followed by moisturizer.

CONDITIONS BEST TREATED BY RETINOLS

acne
fine lines
wrinkles
age (sun) spots, freckles, and other signs of sun damage, sometimes called photoaging
uneven skin texture
melasma and other types of hyperpigmentation
large pores caused by acne, oily skin, or collagen loss

WHY IS IT BENEFICIAL?

Unlike other anti-ageing products , this ingredient does not just stop with removing dead skin cells, they also penetrate deep into the epidermis.

They help in neutralising the free radicals and help in boosting production collagen and elastin. This creates a plumping effect and helps in reducing fine lines, dark spots and wrinkles. Since it also helps in exfoliating the skin the texture is improved to a greater extent.

It is very helpful in clearing out acne, it unclogs pore by forming comedolytic agents to prevent forming blemishes and comedones. If acne is very severe the retinol is prescribed along with antibitoics. It doesn not show results instantaneously, it takes upto six weeks minimum to show visible results.

PRODUCTS IN INDIA

Olay Night Cream: Regenerist Retinol 24 Moisturiser

The cream promises 24 hour potency and hydration on skin. Suited for dry, normal and combination skin. Proven to penetrate 10 layers deep. The formulation works in combination with niacinamide.

The same formulation is available as a serum as well. But it is best to use either one of them and not together since they are of high potency.

The reason the formulation includes niacinamide is to reduce the redness upon using the product.

Price: 379 Quantity: 8gms
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Dot & Key Glow Night Reset Retinol + Ceramide Cream

The formulation includes provitamin B5 and vitamin E along with hyaluronic acid to improve hydration. The other ingredients include hibiscus because of presence of AHAs, seabuck thorn oil, evening primrose oil which help in acne prevention and keeping skin moisturized.

Price: 531 Quantity: 25ml
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The Derma Co. 0.3% Retinol Face Serum For Spotless Skin

The formulation works in combination with vitamin C to fight signs of ageing and alter the aged cells. Also contains glycerine to act as a humectant. Advised to do a patch test before application , especially people with sensitive skin.

Price: 719 quantity: 30ml
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Nykaa SKINRX 2% Advanced Retinol Anti-Aging Face Serum for Wrinkles & Fine Lines

The formulation consists of 2% retinol , along with 2% lactic acid that stimulates collagen renewal and 1% Australian caviar lime extract for it being a rich source of AHA and gentle exfoliant.

Suited for normal, dry , combination and oily skin but no mention about sensitive skin.

Price: 899 quantity: 30ml
Click here to buy:

November 18, 2021November 18, 2021

Must know benefits of Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid, I know its difficult to pronounce but even more difficult to get the right spelling. A skincare ingredient that has recently found its place in almost all serums, sheet mask and moisturizer. And the reason why is that it can be your mandatory addition to daily skincare routine. It is a naturally occurring molecule in your skin that gives you the dewy look.

It helps to bind the water to skin giving it all the more a glowing look. More than retaining moisture it also has various other benefits.

What is hyaluronic acid?

It is a naturally occurring sugar molecule on skin that helps in binding of collagen and water and making the skin look plump and dewy. It helps boost hydration in skin to make it look glowing. The acid molecule binds collagen to one end and water to the other thereby adding to the plump factor of the skin.

What is the need to include hyaluronic acid?

As humans we age so does our skin and in the process there is a decrease in collagen and hyaluronic acid, this makes the skin look dehydrated. Harsh weather conditions like winter, existing skincare problems may cause tiny breaks through which water could leak. So there is a need to include a humectant in skincare regimen to attract the water molecules. Some of which are hyaluronic acid, glycerine and oatmeal.

Hyaluronic acid gets easily absorbed to skin and thereby attracts a lot of water keeping the skin hydrated. This is the reason it finds itself as one of the major ingredients in skincare products.

Skin types

Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that suits all skin types. It does not cause acne, eczema or rosacea.

People with dry and mature skin and those with ageing symptoms might need more of hyaluronic acid. This is because as we age we lose the ability to produce more collagen and hyaluronic acid and it is necessary to be supplemented.

On the other hand, since the name contains the term ‘acid’ people with sensitive skin might fear to incorporate products with this ingredient. That is not the case because it is a naturally occurring molecule in skin that is produced by our very own bodies and can be safely used on sensitive skin.

BENEFITS

A molecule of HA can bind about 100 molecules of water of its own size , come to think of the goodness that it has to offer the skin.

TEWL or trans epidermal water loss is a very commonly known term in the skincare industry that describes water loss on the skin. It is a term that denotes the amount of water evaporated from skin.

A product that prevents TEWL actually helps in keeping your skin hydrated. HA does this by slowing down the rate of evaporation of water from the skin.

HA also apart from being a humectant helps in faster healing of wounds.

The other benefits that HA offers are

Anti-ageing
Reducing redness
Moisturizing
Treat acne
Treat eczema
Increasing the elasticity of skin

It also helps in treatinf dry eye and reduced tear production conditions since it is known for its hydration properties.

It has been proven that the naturally produced hyaluronic acid in body helps in lubricating the bone joints.

PRODUCTS WITH HYALURONIC ACID DOING WELL IN INDIAN MARKETS

Loreal paris revitalift 1.5% hyaluronic acid serum

The serum is non-sticky and promises 21% increased plumpness, 42% skin radiance and intense hydration.

Can be used in both AM and PM routine.

Price: 474 Quantity: 15 ml

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Ponds Super Light Gel Oil Free Moisturiser With Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin E

This is probably the cheapest and one of the effective options to incorporating hyaluronic acid to skincare routine. I’ve personally used this, its non-sticky and does help in retaining moisture , doesn’t give an oily appearance. I loved the fragrance and the gel consistency. Although I felt the packaging can be much more improved.

Price : 149 Quantity: 73gm

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Nykaa SKINRX 2% Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum For Intense Hydration, Plump Skin with 1% Vitamin B5

The formulation has 2% hyaluronic acid, 1% vitamin B5 and 1% marine algae extract.

Can be incorporated in both AM and PM routine. Suits all skin types.

Price: 799 Quantity: 25ml

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Clinique Moisture Surge 100h Auto-replenishing Hydrator(15ml)

The product promises hydration that penetrates 10 layers deep and that lasts for 100 hours. He formulation has hyaluronic acid, activated aloe water and aloe bio ferment.

By far the costliest range I’ve seen in products containing hyaluronic acid.

Price: 950 quantity: 15ml

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